i am in need of an immediate running car and dont have time to fix up my jeep. it was a project to revive it to what it used to be but i cant do that any more, it used to be a hard core 4×4.
1986 Jeep Cherroke Pioneer
The Good:
Inline 6 4.0liter/ Automatic
3-4 inch lift kit
Advanced cooling system
fog lights on bumper
Some type of armor on the belly so it doesnt get hit by rocks
nice cb radio antennee but no radio
hookups for all sorts of audio equpment
pretty tires
some other 4×4 modifications from the previous owner. cant remember
For some reason the center console is in perfect condition in contrast to the rest of the interior
winch hooks of some sort?
The bad
Missing Rear Axle and front drive train or shaft(i thnk)
needs new battery
needs new computer
a dent in the driver’s side
interior in fairly bad shape and is starting to get overtaken by mold
No AC//Heater
back hatch hydrolics are bad
lost the title but sent in for new one
DO NOT send it to the junk yard, reason one being it would be ashamed to send any jeep to the junk yard. reason two you’ll make some money off of it buy parting it out.
if you break it down for what you can sale parts for:
Engine-(with all accessories) $900
Lift Kit (throw shocks out)- $200
cooling system- $150
KC lights(with wiring)- $100
Body Armor (little denting and scratching)- $ 150
CB radio (with everything)- $200
Tires(depending on tread % left)- $ 200
Center console- $ 75
Seats (front)- $100
seats(rear)- $150
Door(s)- $ 50 each
Front Axel-$ 150-200
Frame-(no cracks, no twisting) $850
Tub (body)- $ 450
Radiator- $ 75
thats just a summary so you can make a profit of $3,445.00 (approx)
its a lot more profit to take the time to part it out..you could sale it to the junk yard for $150, or you can call a place where I live (CA) and they will buy it from you for like $800 (pick up salvage company www.pickupsalvage.com) they specialize in jeeps!
You know those really loud songs that just slam BASS on your subs? Well, in this flush mount install vid, I’ll add a 2nd layer of wood to actually prevent box flex!
http://www.youtube.com/user/EXOcontralto
It’s easy to see, I love Loud Car Audio! Thanks again Big Steve, for the cool 18 inch subwoofer, and all the crazy help! – Keep it real Meade ! ~ EXO
“This ain’t no 12 inch sub box pal, that is HUGE” – Ricky
“That’s the biggest woofer I’ve ever seen” – David
My First Car Audio SPL Bass Installation
(1) Alpine MRP 500 – Class D Monoblock Amplifier
(1) Alpine MRP 1000 – Class D Monoblock Amplifier
(3) Orion HP 12 @ 2 ohms – Subs
(2) Orion Cobalt 5.25’s – Highs
(2) Power Acoustik PCX 5 farad Capacitors
*Same 200 amp H/O Alt*
My Current Competition Car Audio Stereo System
Pioneer DEH-P6000ub – Head Unit
Clarion Eqs746 Graphic EQ – Equalizer *BEST*
(1) DAT Hellfire 2500.1 Class D Mono Amp ( Diablo Audio Technologies ) 3000 + Watts @ 1 ohm
(1) Ascendant Mayhem 18 inch Subwoofer
(1) Single Slot Ported Box Tuned To 32 hz / 6cft
(2) Orion Cobalt 5.25’s – Highs & Tweeters
(2) Polk DB 5×7’s – Mid Range Speakers
(2) Polk DB 6×9’s – Mid Range Speakers
(1) MCR 200 amp High Output Alternator
Big 3 in 0 Gauge Cable – Stinger / Tsumani Power Wire
~ On the whole, this insane car audio sub box bass enclosure has been extremely tricky to make, and wicked easy to mess up. – both 4 seal & ported, 12 inch to 15 inch – these types of steree installations need a perfect circle cut out – - unlike those type-r subs lol – Cutting the speaker hole is the best part. yeah right – Learn how to build a sub speaker box by checking out my subwoofer box building videos for more enclosure making help! Tuning a sub box is the hardest part – ridiculous – and It can take years to master tuning by heart. But, if you make it just right, the songs will slam bass even louder than before, and each new track will be the greatest new feeling each and every time!
Duration : 0:3:18
Read the rest of this entry »
You know those really loud songs that just slam BASS on your subs? Well, in this flush mount install vid, I’ll add a 2nd layer of wood to actually prevent box flex!
http://www.youtube.com/user/EXOcontralto
It’s easy to see, I love Loud Car Audio! Thanks again Big Steve, for the cool 18 inch subwoofer, and all the crazy help! – Keep it real Meade ! ~ EXO
“This ain’t no 12 inch sub box pal, that is HUGE” – Ricky
“That’s the biggest woofer I’ve ever seen” – David
My First Car Audio SPL Bass Installation
(1) Alpine MRP 500 – Class D Monoblock Amplifier
(1) Alpine MRP 1000 – Class D Monoblock Amplifier
(3) Orion HP 12 @ 2 ohms – Subs
(2) Orion Cobalt 5.25’s – Highs
(2) Power Acoustik PCX 5 farad Capacitors
*Same 200 amp H/O Alt*
My Current Competition Car Audio Stereo System
Pioneer DEH-P6000ub – Head Unit
Clarion Eqs746 Graphic EQ – Equalizer *BEST*
(1) DAT Hellfire 2500.1 Class D Mono Amp ( Diablo Audio Technologies ) 3000 + Watts @ 1 ohm
(1) Ascendant Mayhem 18 inch Subwoofer
(1) Single Slot Ported Box Tuned To 32 hz / 6cft
(2) Orion Cobalt 5.25’s – Highs & Tweeters
(2) Polk DB 5×7’s – Mid Range Speakers
(2) Polk DB 6×9’s – Mid Range Speakers
(1) MCR 200 amp High Output Alternator
Big 3 in 0 Gauge Cable – Stinger / Tsumani Power Wire
~ On the whole, this insane car audio sub box bass enclosure has been extremely tricky to make, and wicked easy to mess up. – both 4 seal & ported, 12 inch to 15 inch – these types of steree installations need a perfect circle cut out – - unlike those type-r subs lol – Cutting the speaker hole is the best part. yeah right – Learn how to build a sub speaker box by checking out my subwoofer box building videos for more enclosure making help! Tuning a sub box is the hardest part – ridiculous – and It can take years to master tuning by heart. But, if you make it just right, the songs will slam bass even louder than before, and each new track will be the greatest new feeling each and every time!
Duration : 0:3:18
Read the rest of this entry »
MTX created the Terminator series amplified sub system with one thing in mind: to terminate the competition who make inferior quality loaded woofer systems. They did a great job with this system as they thoroughly tested their TN250/1 Class D monoblock amplifier with the two Terminator 12" subwoofers and matched them in the perfect enclosure. Because they built the enclosure to perfect specifications for the subs and amp combo, they allow you to leave your fear of a bad system at the door and instead enjoy hours of clean, loud bass at an unbeatable price.
TNE212D Dual Loaded Subwoofer Enclosure Features:
2 12" Terminator Series Subwoofers Included
Power Handling:
Peak: 1200 watts per pair / 600 watts each sub
RMS: 400 watts per pair / 200 watts each sub
2" Aluminum single 4 ohms voice coil
Rubber Surround
Polypropylene Cone
MTX Audio Logo on Dustcap
48oz. Magnet
Frequency response: 37-150 Hz
Enclosure Features:
Dual 12" Sealed Sub Enclosure
5/8" MDF Solid Contruction
Durable Black Carpeting
Terminator Logo Embroidered into Carpet Front
Dimensions: 14"H x 29-1/2"W x 13-1/2"D1 x 11"D2
TN250/1 Monoblock Amplifier Features:
Terminator Series Class D Monoblock Car Amplifier
RMS Power Rating:
2 ohms: 200 watts x 1 chan.
Max power output: 400 watts x 1 chan.
LED power and protection indicators
Selectable bass boost (0, 6, 12 dB at 40 Hz)
Mono gain control
Smart engage auto turn-on circuitry
Built-in adaptive cooling fans
Fixed low-pass filter (85 Hz, 18 dB/octave)
CEA-2006 compliant amplifier
Frequency response: 20-85 Hz
Dimensions: 13-1/16"L x 10-3/16"W x 2-1/4"H
4-gauge power and ground leads recommended. Contact us for information regarding a discount on a select amplifier kit when purchased together.
Is This Package Worth $260?
and will it sound good,hit hard/loud?
OVERALL-IS IT WORTH GETTING??
yes its worth it
and those mtx terminator subs are very good
MTX created the Terminator series amplified sub system with one thing in mind: to terminate the competition who make inferior quality loaded woofer systems. They did a great job with this system as they thoroughly tested their TN250/1 Class D monoblock amplifier with the two Terminator 12" subwoofers and matched them in the perfect enclosure. Because they built the enclosure to perfect specifications for the subs and amp combo, they allow you to leave your fear of a bad system at the door and instead enjoy hours of clean, loud bass at an unbeatable price.
TNE212D Dual Loaded Subwoofer Enclosure Features:
2 12" Terminator Series Subwoofers Included
Power Handling:
Peak: 1200 watts per pair / 600 watts each sub
RMS: 400 watts per pair / 200 watts each sub
2" Aluminum single 4 ohms voice coil
Rubber Surround
Polypropylene Cone
MTX Audio Logo on Dustcap
48oz. Magnet
Frequency response: 37-150 Hz
Enclosure Features:
Dual 12" Sealed Sub Enclosure
5/8" MDF Solid Contruction
Durable Black Carpeting
Terminator Logo Embroidered into Carpet Front
Dimensions: 14"H x 29-1/2"W x 13-1/2"D1 x 11"D2
TN250/1 Monoblock Amplifier Features:
Terminator Series Class D Monoblock Car Amplifier
RMS Power Rating:
2 ohms: 200 watts x 1 chan.
Max power output: 400 watts x 1 chan.
LED power and protection indicators
Selectable bass boost (0, 6, 12 dB at 40 Hz)
Mono gain control
Smart engage auto turn-on circuitry
Built-in adaptive cooling fans
Fixed low-pass filter (85 Hz, 18 dB/octave)
CEA-2006 compliant amplifier
Frequency response: 20-85 Hz
Dimensions: 13-1/16"L x 10-3/16"W x 2-1/4"H
4-gauge power and ground leads recommended. Contact us for information regarding a discount on a select amplifier kit when purchased together.
Is This Package Worth $260?
and will it sound good,hit hard/loud?
OVERALL-IS IT WORTH GETTING??
yes its worth it
and those mtx terminator subs are very good
I have a 2008 Ford Ranger XLT extended cab. I am a sound engineer by trade, but I’ve never had experience with car audio. What I want to know, is what subwoofer would be the best for my truck without taking up an enormous amount of space. I like to keep my two fold out seets in the back operable, but I also want a little more out of my system.
Conditions:
1) I want to keep my stock stereo (instrument panel)
2) I only want one woofer, my being a sound engineer kind of bites me in the tail, because I always have to have things sounding PERFECT, and my version of perfect is with a bit extra kick to it 
, so I’m saying I don’t want you to hear me coming down the street from a mile away, but I do want to add bass performance to my system
3) I’m on a tight budget
Installation ideas are helpful too. Thanks!!!
BS, if u only want some bump u need one 10 inch sub @ 300 watts with a matching amp. can be bought on ebay for under 200. (even a walamrt sub provides some bump) but obviosly you do get what u pay for. but if u only want some better SQ anything will add bass but i would recommend the infinity kappa perfect as they are a free air sub and dont require a box and therefore you can mount it anywhere it will fit and if you then enclose it it will sound even btr. you could even get an 8′ and put it in a bass cannon. i heard a JL 8′ in a cannon on a legacy amp in a small s10 and was very loud…..like u could hear it for 3 blocks
I have a 2008 Ford Ranger XLT extended cab. I am a sound engineer by trade, but I’ve never had experience with car audio. What I want to know, is what subwoofer would be the best for my truck without taking up an enormous amount of space. I like to keep my two fold out seets in the back operable, but I also want a little more out of my system.
Conditions:
1) I want to keep my stock stereo (instrument panel)
2) I only want one woofer, my being a sound engineer kind of bites me in the tail, because I always have to have things sounding PERFECT, and my version of perfect is with a bit extra kick to it , so I’m saying I don’t want you to hear me coming down the street from a mile away, but I do want to add bass performance to my system
3) I’m on a tight budget
Installation ideas are helpful too. Thanks!!!
BS, if u only want some bump u need one 10 inch sub @ 300 watts with a matching amp. can be bought on ebay for under 200. (even a walamrt sub provides some bump) but obviosly you do get what u pay for. but if u only want some better SQ anything will add bass but i would recommend the infinity kappa perfect as they are a free air sub and dont require a box and therefore you can mount it anywhere it will fit and if you then enclose it it will sound even btr. you could even get an 8′ and put it in a bass cannon. i heard a JL 8′ in a cannon on a legacy amp in a small s10 and was very loud…..like u could hear it for 3 blocks
Im not too bright with car audio at all, I had my friend hook up my system, he’s really good at it as well. As long as I’ve known him his tunes have always sounded great in his car. Anyways, I had everything hooked up great and it was working fine for over a year, Finally my sub (which was really old, died out. I replaced it with a used rockford fosgate punch 12 inch which kicked perfect for metal. That worked for about 3 weeks when it suddenly just died out today. My Amp is a dual 460W and the rockford was a 400W, to me that looks like trouble. When this happen, my volume was fairly loud, and the speakers front and back started to distort very badly. When I shut it off, my speakers went back to normal but my sub is dead. I then replaced it with a junk sub for now because im scared it might blow again. I know I’m not giving you a lot to work with but is it just bad luck or is something amiss?
you should look at what the amplifier power is look at the rms power not the max
then get a sub that has the rms matched up to that of the amp
maybe the gain is off balance ask your friend if he’s no help take it to a place where they install auto sound
just trying to really create a dynamic audio system in my car, and my most import aspect of my music is the midrange or midbass, i have a very ample sub for my true or deep bass. but i just can’t stand bass distortion coming through my door speakers when i turn up the bass, even though i have a seperate sub control i still want to turn the bass up on my door speakers which seems to me to be what controls the midbass. so i was psyched when i see these bass blocker things that supposedly eliminate the frequencies that are too low for door speakers and eliminate distortion. but i don’t know if i need to or even can instiall them on this set of component speakers i’m getting the infinity kappa perfect 6.1’s. i know i’m gonna get some for the other pair of speakers i’m getting for the front doors. but i see that theres already some sort of pass or filter thing that comes with these components, so the blockers are only 8 bucks do i need em? or can i?
i would defiantly get them. The mids and highs will be more crisp and youll really like how it brings your music to life
just trying to really create a dynamic audio system in my car, and my most import aspect of my music is the midrange or midbass, i have a very ample sub for my true or deep bass. but i just can’t stand bass distortion coming through my door speakers when i turn up the bass, even though i have a seperate sub control i still want to turn the bass up on my door speakers which seems to me to be what controls the midbass. so i was psyched when i see these bass blocker things that supposedly eliminate the frequencies that are too low for door speakers and eliminate distortion. but i don’t know if i need to or even can instiall them on this set of component speakers i’m getting the infinity kappa perfect 6.1’s. i know i’m gonna get some for the other pair of speakers i’m getting for the front doors. but i see that theres already some sort of pass or filter thing that comes with these components, so the blockers are only 8 bucks do i need em? or can i?
i would defiantly get them. The mids and highs will be more crisp and youll really like how it brings your music to life